Classic Jil Sander came back with double-faced cashmere coats over a simple turtleneck dresses. Classic Sander at it's best is simple and relies on only proportions and raised seams. It's the epitome of minimalism. But the second part of the show was much different - Simons delivered his vision of taking the brand forward. And into the future he went! Fabric cascading into spirals, sculptural folds bending around the neckline, monumental volume... Literal Vases. Inspired by mid-century French ceramicist Pol Chambost, some would say he took inspiration much too literally. And many would say that this new Jil Sander is not what the old rooted customer of Jil Sander would want. This technique worked sometimes - other times it failed miserably, because of the lack of attention to the woman's silhouette who would be wearing the garment.
My favorite part of fashion week Milan so far? The Dolce and Gabbana show. Brocade Lampshade skirts, Structured bustier tops, destructed jeans embellished with crystals, band jackets... In other words, a lot less serious than Jil Sander, and probably targeting to a much younger market than Jil Sander - but don't take that as loss of sophistication. D&G's show was a whirl pool of elegance. The show was extremely operatic and unapologetic. It screamed, "The show must go on!" Opera singer and soprano Maria Callas was cited as inspiration. It was- for lack of better words- decadently Italian.
